Review: Steak & Honour

Image credit: Olivia Thomas

If you think you've had the best burger in Cambridge, you haven't tried Steak & Honour. Originating as a cult-favourite burger van with standard weekly locations around Cambridge, and a stint as a pop-up kitchen at Novi, the award-winning burger vendor has this month opened a permanent restaurant location on Wheeler Street, next to the Corn Exchange. With stiff competition from the multitude of burger restaurants in town, not to mention Pint Shop two doors down, I was keen to see if Steak & Honour burgers lived up to the hype.

The restaurant is in keeping with the no-frills approach of the original vans - quick, easy, but never failing to impress. From the outside, a welcoming orange light spills out onto the street much like the queueing customers, leaving the open kitchen on the ground floor invitingly on show. Both eat-in and takeaway orders are processed simultaneously, so don't despair if the queue seems daunting - these guys know how to do 'fast' food. If a sit-down burger is more your style, the first and second floors are home to slick wooden benches and gleaming white tables, punctuated only with the occasional characteristic red ketchup bottle. Tables are often shared between multiple groups, giving the restaurant a community vibe.

The burgers themselves are reasonably priced – £7 for their most basic offering, the 'Classic'. While sides like french fries initially seem expensive at £4, do not be fooled – this vast serving of chips can happily be shared between two. I went for the Cheeseburger (breaking those New Year's resolutions after a tragic effort of 11 days) and fries, and safe to say I was not disappointed. The perfectly cooked patty adorned with the classic combination of lettuce, onion, gherkin, mustard and ketchup (and don't forget the American cheese!), all wrapped up in a brioche bun, was the perfect antidote to a bitingly cold Cambridge evening. Even the french fries left me wanting more, with their devilishly good secret seasoning.

Though Steak & Honour is not short of competitors in terms of burger restaurants (from local hit Butch Annie's to chain stalwarts GBK and Byron), I would not be afraid to call a S&H burger the best in town. Reasonably priced and of exceptional quality, you really can't beat it. That being said, the restaurant itself, while having a communal atmosphere, is not the place for a long and lazy meal – make no mistake that Steak & Honour keeps to its heart, a 'fast', but by no means ordinary, burger joint.

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