When you're good to Wagamama

10 November 2007

“When you’re good to Mama, Mama’s good to you.” So begins the best number in Chicago. Legs kicking, garters hoisted, romance and passion spread-eagled across chairs and tables.

Wagamama could really not be more different. Clinical eating in close quarters prevents the Cell block tango. The guaranteed wait to be seated is just a drag. However, once seated, things begin to look up. A waitress equipped with more gizmoes than Inspector Gadget approaches the benches and demands an order. Numbers please, not words. Something unintelligible is scrawled on your place-mat and she disappears into the hum of conversation. Gilbert makes a dash for the loo, leaving Sullivan to pore over the mysterious Wagamama philosophy, printed on the menus, that rivals Rice Crispies packets for depth of thought.

But soon the food is here. Very soon in fact. A voluminous pair of ladies had only a few moments to squeeze themselves next to our (rather more pert) posteriors before our hyperactive waitress was back, thrusting her steaming receptacles under our noses. Followed by the food. She smiled briefly and then, like a Ritalin addled children’s TV presenter, was away again – her even more pert buttocks hovering suggestively above our fellow diners’ heads.

From one succulent prospect to another: the Chilli Beef Ramen was spectacular. Beautifully flavoured, tender meat and spiced to get you sweating like Richard Gere in court. Sullivan Zellweger looked like he’d just shot his sister; Gilbert Zeta Jones like he had married a bad actor nine times his age. The Ginger Chicken Udon was a masticatory triumph, the Wagamama Ramen less so. Asian fusion at its liquid apogee.

36A St Andrew’s Street, Cambridge

CB2 3AX

Tel: 01223 462 354